Angry Griffin's Oldhammer

Tag: Paint schemes

  • Stone Town Kickstarter Painting Update 5

    The same colour palette as last time – this time I finished off the broken level and added it to the intact one:

    You can see the colours used here.

  • Stone Town Kickstarter Painting Update #4

    This one was super quick:

    Stone:

    Undercoat: Vallejo Mecha Black

    Base Coat: Citadel Morghast Bone

    Pigment: Scale75 Soilworks Dark Earth SPG-10

    That’s it. It’s a very speedy way of getting something tabletop ready in short order.

    The door was painted with the same colours as the gangway. Speaking of the gangway:

  • Stone Town Kickstarter: Painting the ruined level and accessories

    Managed to get a couple of things painted today from the stone town Kickstarter – the undamaged flooring, the ruined level, the table and the wardrobe. It proved a lot easier to show what the accessories looked like on the damaged level than the solid one, so let’s just pretend someone put them there after the building was damaged!

    Colours used:

    Undercoat: Vallejo Mecha Black

    Base coat: Citadel Morghast Bone

    Recess pigment: Soilworks Dark Earth

    Other pigments: 50:50 Soilworks Dark Earth and Vallejo Yellow Ochre

    Wood base: Mournfang Brown

    Lines in wood: Death Guard Green, XV-88 or Averland Sunset

    Wood contrast: Nazdreg Yellow, Guilliman Flesh, Wyldwood or Aggaros Dunes

    Metal handle on wardrobe: Leadbelcher

    You can find more out about the Kickstarter here.

  • Stone Town Kickstarter: Painting the gangway

    If you have been following along you’ll know we have an active Kickstarter for some cut stone terrain. The gangway is part of that set and is designed to go between two of the buildings – here’s my take on painting it:

    Paints used:

    Undercoat: Vallejo Mecha Black

    Base coat for stone ends: Morghast Bone

    Base coat for wood: Mournfang Brown

    Lines in wood: Hobgrot hide or Averland Sunset

    Wood contrasts, randomly: Snakebite Leather, Wyldwood, Gore-Grunta Fur, Nazdreg Yellow

    Bolts: Scale75 Heavy Metal

    Bolt corrosion: Vallejo Rust Texture

    Central, worn pigment: Scale75 Dark Earth

    Outer pigments: 50:50 Vallejo Dark Yellow Ochre and Scale75 Reddish Brown

  • Stone Town Kickstarter: Painting the well

    Today I’m looking at the well which is part of our January Kickstarter.

    Assembled it looks like this – I painted it in pieces, however:

    The paint recipe I used was this – all with a brush, no airbrush used this time around:

    Undercoat: Vallejo Mecha Black

    Well base coat: Zandri Dust

    Well recesses: Aggaros Dunes

    Well highlights (left and bottom of each brick): Instant Phoenix Egg 50:50 with Instant Medium

    Well highlights in lower left corner only: Flayed One Flesh 50:50 with Vallejo Matt Medium

    Well highlights on edge of topmost bricks: Flayed One Flesh

    Well brick center: Sponged on XV-88

    Well upper pigment: Vallejo Dark Yellow Ochre

    Well lower pigment: Vallejo Dark Yellow Ochre 50:50 with Scale75 Reddish Brown

    Water stain across back of well: Vallejo Slimy Grime with Vallejo Petrol Stains in recesses

    Wood base coat: Mournfang Brown

    Lines in wood: Averland Sunset or Steel Legion Drab

    Wash for wood, at random: Gore-Grunta Fur, Guilliman Flesh, Snakebite Leather or Wyldwood

    Pigments for wood: Well lower pigment: Vallejo Dark Yellow Ochre 50:50 with Scale75 Reddish Brown, mostly rubbed off high points

    Check out the Kickstarter here: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/angrygriffin/3d-printable-stls-stone-town-terrain-pay-what-you-want

  • Ultramarines Paint Scheme using Scale 75 Artist paints

    This took me about an hour as a colour test for painting Ultramarines using the Scale 75 Artist paints. I really like the vibrancy you can get out of the colours and while it’s far from my neatest paint job I really like the overall effect.

    Undercoat: Vallejo Mecha Black

    Base coat: Scale75 Art Black

    Wet blend blues: Scale75 Light Ultramarine / Cobalt Blue

    Highlight: Primary Blue

    Eyes: Art White followed by Crimson, then Citadel Contrast Blood Angels Red, then shade with Instant Arcane Purple

    Gold: Necro Gold / Instant Arcane Purple / highlight Dwarven Gold / ultimate highlight Citrine Alchemy

    Silver: Black metal, blended to heavy metal, highlight Speed Metal, shadows Instant Shadow Black

    Rubber: Art Black, highlight Black Metal

  • Painting a Raven Guard Leviathan Dreadnought

    Take Two! Notes for those who requested, photo coming soon.

    Claws: Wet blending Macragge Blue/Sotek Green/Baharroth Blue

    Cannons: Vallejo Steel, dry Ironbreaker, dry Hexos Palesun, dry Underhive Ash, dry Kindleflame, dry Ryza Rust, dry Astorath Red, dry Naggaroth Night, dry Abaddon Black, rim highlight Ironbreaker, wash of Casandora Yellow over the yellow parts

  • Painting Stormcast Annihilators – Gold scheme V2

    This is the third attempt at a colour scheme for a Stormcast Annihilator from the Dominion box and the second gold attempt – I think it’s much better than the first, the gold shading really made a lot of difference.

    Undercoat: Vallejo Mecha Black

    Metal base: Scale75 Necro Gold, Scale75 Viking Gold over that

    Metal shade: Watered down Scale75 Instant Arcane Purple, 7 or so layers at the darkest point

    Highlight with Dwarven Gold

    Highlight that with Elven Gold

    Highlight that with Peridot Alchemy

    Highlight that with Citrine Alchemy

    Silver:

    Black Metal

    Thrash Metal

    Heavy Metal

    Wash in recesses – hold model upside down – with Fairy Blood, followed by Shadow Black

    Leather:

    Mournfang Brown

    Shade with Grizzly Brown

    Red handles:

    Vallejo Heavy Red

    Shade with Grizzly Brown

    Gems:

    Vallejo Heavy Red, shade with Grizzly Brown, highlight Vallejo Model Color Cold White

    Blue: Prussian Blue, shade with Drak, further spot shade with Fairy Blood, highlight with Prussian Blue and some light scratches with same

    Lightning: Dry Skink Blue

    Shield blue: Prussian Blue/Drak/highlight Prussian Blue, 50/50 Prussian+Temple Guard, then straight Temple Guard

  • Painting energy effects on Warhammer 40K thunder hammers

    I’m painting up some Raven Guard Primaris Intercessors squads where the sergeants have thunder hammers, and here’s the recipe I’m using to get the following look:

    The hammer started off being undercoated in Mecha Black and a base coat of Hashut Copper was applied. A wash of Canoptek Armourshade was next and once that dried a heavy drybrush of Ironbreaker followed. The contact face of the hammer then received some White Scar and a drybrush of Praxeti White was applied, brushing from the face back so that it faded the further it went.

    Calth Blue Clear was applied to the sides of the hammer. It dries a little more slowly than the Citadel washes so it’s a little easier to move it around to create a light to dark transition without having to get it right first time around.

    Talassar Blue was applied closer to the face of the hammer to help with the transition, then Drakenhof Nightshade was carefully painted onto the face in the recesses and further back on the hammer where there were still lighter spots visible in recesses.

    A little more drybrushing with Praxeti White and then some careful edge highlighting with White Scar got it to the point you see above.

  • How to paint very weathered Imperial Knights or vehicles

    This is my current favoured formula for very weathered/aged/battle damaged Imperial Knight miniatures. It’ll work on vehicles like tanks or armoured miniatures like Space Marines as well, but it’s probably easiest on the scale of a tank or Knight!

    I undercoated with Vallejo Mecha Primer in black, then base coated the silver section with Citadel Iron Hands Steel. The blue was Citadel Thousand Sons Blue. I used thinned paints to build up a smooth and solid colour.

    Next comes Citadel Rhinox Hide on a sponge (actually a torn out piece of a pick ‘n pluck-style miniature storage case) applied along any raised edges and across the center of any broad surfaces.

    After that, I heavily stippled Citadel Mournfang Brown in smaller areas than the Rhinox hide, generally staying within the Rhinox Hide-covered areas. After that, a lighter stippling of Citadel Evil Sunz Scarlet and Citadel Zandri Dust added in a couple more variations on the rusted look. I’m on the fence as to whether Evil Sunz is too bright or not – the next time I’m going to try something a touch darker to try and make the red pop less.

    A heavy wash of Citadel Agrax Earthshade really took the brightness out of the colours and made the Knight look like he’d been fighting for some time on an acid-rain world.

    For the chassis beneath, I used the same technique but did a heavy drybrush of Citadel Ironbreaker after the Agrax Earthshade wash to differentiate the frame from the carapace.

    After the drybrush I did a light drybrush of Citadel Ryza Rust on select areas such as below the eye lenses.

    More in progress shots next time!