This guy was Capt. Huron Grimm initially, and seen as Chainsword 2, part number 070119/36 in the 1991 catalogue.
Marked as GW 87 on the back – nothing on the front on this guy.
Here are my experiments with magnetising one of the new Kratos tanks from Games Workshop for Warhammer 30K or 40K.
Magnetising the dozer blade came first – I did this after assembly, though it’d be easier to do it beforehand. Taking a power drill to the built tank was somewhat hair raising – if you do this be careful that the drill doesn’t bite the plastic and pull sharply into the hole. I went with 6x1mm magnets as a decent fit, and they are enough to hold the blade up:
I picked the outer aspect of each mount point on the chassis, as there was more plastic at that point on the blade mounts to drill into.
On the blade:
It doesn’t look it from the angle of the photo but the magnets are only just sitting higher than flush to ensure good contact with the other side.
Magnetised and in place:
The body guns don’t strictly need it as the guns push fit into the socket, but… well, I got a bit carried away. 5x1mm magnets – done before assembly:
More to come!
Here is how I magnetised the new Games Workshop plastic Deimos Rhino kit so that the hatches could be interchangeable.
You just need the sprues that came with it and some magnets. I used 5x1mm magnets but 4x1mm, 3x1mm or even 2x1mm would work as well – they don’t need to be strong magnets as they’re not really fighting gravity here.
On the underside of the top section, cut a section of sprue and glue it in place. You can do this after it’s been assembled if you are careful and use tweezers/small pliers to guide the sprue in and pull it against the underside. Then just turn the tank upside down to let gravity keep it against the underside.
Alternately, do it before you assemble…
I used four pieces of sprue – you really only need one, but since the sprue was being chucked anyway I figured why not.
From the top:
Add a magnet at the front:
The front is easiest for the hatches since the lowest point of the hatches is located there. On the underside of the hatches:
You can see that the 5mm magnet overhangs the area it’s glued to – that’s not strictly an issue, but if I had smaller diameter magnets it would have been a good opportunity to use them. The 1mm depth is important here – two 1mm deep magnets align perfectly with the gap available.
The missile launcher hatch requires a single piece of sprue to be glued under it to achieve the same gap – photos to come.
The gunner/commander will require something across the gap at the front – I used this with a 3x1mm magnet underneath:
For his gun mount I used a 2x1mm magnet on the gun end and a 3x1mm on the handle end – it would be easier to use 2×1 on both ends.
Will need more of part #15 – the arm that the gun mounts to – but something compatible shouldn’t be hard to come up with. More on that to come…
I haven’t found these in a catalogue yet!
This was apparently available via mail order only for a month in 1988! I can’t find any literature to that extent.
That’s how it arrived! They were designed to fit with the RTB01 plastic beakies.
This guy was part number 072129/20 as seen in the 1991 catalogue, and the conversion beamer is 072129/15.
This guy was one of the eight in the C100 set, pre-dating Rogue Trader’s release by a couple of years. He’s shown as Missile Launcher then, and in later catalogues as Las Cannon 2 – part number 070121/37.
This guy was one of eight in the pre-Rogue Trader Imperial Marine Shock Squad set, and was Marine Advancing. He was shown in later catalogues as Bolter 2, part number 070121/39.
He’s a Bob Naismith sculpt.
This guy was one of the eight C100 Imperial Marines, pre-dating Rogue Trader by a couple of years. He was shown in later catalogues as Las Cannon 1, part number 070121/43.
This guy was the Imperial Marine Guard, later shown as Bolter 4 070121/41 in the catalogues.
He’s a Bob Naismith sculpt.