This is Captain Romero from the Rogue Trader era. He was later shown in the catalogues as Chain Sword and Bolter 070119/29 and is also seen in White Dwarf 99 (March 1988).
He seems to be named after Cesar Romero, who played the Joker in the 1960s Batman TV series.
This guy is a standout sculpt amongst the metal Sternguard Veterans! Part number 99060101409.
These guys appear in the 2009 Citadel catalogue under Elites.
Colours used:
Undercoat: Vallejo Mecha Black
Base coat: Scale75 Artist Cobalt Blue, shaded with Prussian Blue
Flex joins: Scale75 Art Black, highlighted by Pastel Blue, washed with Nuln Oil Gloss
Gold: Scale75 Necro Gold followed by a thin coat of Inktense Chestnut, then a recess shade of Inktense Chestnut. Highlights of Elven Gold, Peridot Alchemy and Citrine Alchemy
Silver: Scale75 Black Metal, shade of Prussian Blue, highlights of Cobalt Alchemy and White Alchemy
White: Scale75 Art White, highlights of Inktense White, shade of thinned Cobalt Blue
Red: Base coat of Scale75 Art White, followed by Primary Red/Red Ochre 60:40, followed by Primary Red, shaded with Dark Violet, highlighted with Primary Red, selective highlight of FX Fluor Red Ecstasy
Green for fist: Scale75 Artist Spring Green, highlight with a 50:50 mix of Spring Green and Primary Yellow
Eye lens: Scale75 White followed by Spring Green, highlight of 50:50 Spring Green and Primary Yellow, shade with Sap Green, further shade with Green Grey, highlight with White
Leather: Burnt Sienna Umber, highlighted with… I didn’t write it down. One of the parchment colours
Bone colour/Purity seals: Buff, shaded by 50:50 Buff/Burnt Sienna Umber, highlighted with Off White, highlighted with Vanilla White, text diluted Burnt Sienna Umber
This guy is from the Armour Variants set which was designed by Jes Goodwin and the Citadel Design Team. He’s a 1990 sculpt and shows up in the 1991 catalogue as part number 070270/3. The earliest I can find him in a White Dwarf is March 1990:
The blurb for the Armour Variants goes:
“In the last 5000 years the design of Space Marine armour has evolved through many stages, from Mark 1 to the Mark 8. Many chapters still use all the different types, with the early models regarded as the Chapters Heirlooms. These early armours, once worn by the Chapter’s greatest heroes, have been embellished by the Chaplains Artificers, who create the Chapters equipment and honour badges.”
Nothing on the front or back of the tab on this one, unfortunately.
Undercoat: Vallejo Mecha Black
Blue: Scale75 Art Cobalt Blue, combined with Pro Acryl Titanium White for lighter areas and Scale75 Art Black for darker.
Red: Pro Acryl Bold Pyrrole Red, shaded with Targor Rageshade, highlighted with Bold Pyrrole Red/Golden Yellow
Green: Scale75 Art Spring Green, shaded with Art Black, highlighted with Golden Yellow
Silver: Black Metal, Targor Rageshade, Heavy Metal, Speed Metal
Base: Scale75 Soilworks Reddish Brown around edges, then Dark Mud over that to try something different, then Natural Soil, then Sand in the center, highlight on the rock was Gypsum. The legs were dusted with Natural Soil.
These are the settings I use for printing the wargaming terrain we sell. These work on our Prusa Mk3S printers and may require tweaking when applied to other printers – take them as a starting point.
I find that 0.2mm layer height works as a good compromise between speed and quality, where if you want something of higher quality I find that the 0.08mm settings work well and we used those when printing the example pieces for our Stone Town Kickstarter.
Via PrusaSlicer these are our preferred settings at 0.2mm layer height with a 0.4mm nozzle:
Vertical Shells: 3
Horizontal Layers, Top: 8
Horizontal Layers, Bottom: 4
Seam Position: Nearest
Infill: 12%, Adaptive Cubic
Perimeters: 55mm/s
Small Perimeters: 20mm/s
External Perimeters: 55mm/s
Infill: 85mm/s
Solid Infill: 85mm/s
Top Solid Infill: 35mm/s
Bridges: 55mm/s
Gap Fill: 35mm/s
Travel: 120mm/s
At higher quality I change these – 0.08mm layer height:
This relates to our Kickstarter, and covers both PrusaSlicer and Cura approaches to printing the objects without supports.
I’d strongly suggest using PrusaSlicer (which works with machines other than Prusas, including Enders) given the added convenience of the ability to choose the bridging angle as you’ll see below.
By default, most slicers seem to use 45 degree bridging angles, which produces bridges like this (light blue):
This will produce a droopy print in the rectangular cutouts. By changing the Bridging Angle under Infill in PrusSlicer to 0 degrees:
That gives us overhangs like this:
The overhang is quite short and has been managed without supports on all the printers we have tested.
Cura lacks any ability to manually alter the bridging angle as far as I can tell, but you can get around that by rotating the object itself 45 degrees. By default the overhangs look like this:
Rotated 45 degrees gives this:
This will cover both the recesses for the floor tabs and things like the window base in the building.